Not sure if anyone can help on this matter :-\,
After about 8 hours with my 100 hp Yamaha 4 stroke engine motor running (5 hours of which I was trolling), as I decrease speed from cruising to enter port I heard a continuous beeping sound and noticed that the temp warning sign was blinking. The beeping sound and sign continued for maybe 30 seconds and then stopped. I checked immediately if water was coming out from the motor water outlet and it looked ok. Also checked if there was any plastic etc covering the water intakes but at that time noticed none. I stopped the motor and continued entering Xemxija at a slow speed. The warning sound did not go off again.
I service the motor every summer by a Yamaha mechanic, and this has never happened to me before. The boat has been at me for 6 years now, and I changed the impeller approx 2 years ago.
Any suggestions what could be the problem? Obviously I will be talking to my Mechanic about this but wanted to see if this has ever happened to someone else, and if I should be very worried :'( and not use the boat offshore for now???
Anything else i should be checking myself to see whats the problem?
Thanks a lot nies,
Could be your impellor needs replacing Steve. Was it only happening at cruising speed? Given that would be when the engine needs to circulate the most amount of water....when was the last time you changed your impellor and remember that sometimes they can shred even if they were changed recently. It's happened to me before on my Dad's Mercruiser V8s
I would guess you or your mechanic may not have checked your thermostat recently, and you may have a restricted flow of coolant because the thermostat is fouled with salt deposits or faulty.
Have you solved the problem with your motor yet ?
Same happened to me but the alarm was engine failure.
Tested it and resulted a Solenoid valve, Part from RLR costs double the price of Zarb Stores. (Amazing!!!!!!!Same part exaclty).
Wow these electronics...... and I just serviced it few months back.
As yours is a Suzuki engine underneath, makes sense to a certain extent. 3rd Party factory makes part for Suzuki, comes into their stock system at Price X. Suzuki dealers get it for X + y% markup as it's used on various zuke engines. BRP places small order for these parts as Johnson are no longer made but they have to keep parts support. BRP get it for a much more expensive price, put their own markup on it, sell it to BRP dealers who put another Mark up on it and then it comes to the end user.
What's interesting is that when I was looking for my new engine I was looking as Suzuki or Evinrude. Zuke were several thousand euros more expensive than Evinrude BRP. And availability of the Zuke would be quite long in comparison. BRP upped warranty in 2011 to 5 years and still no maintenance needed for 1st 3 years guaranteed by the factory. To me that was a no brainer, especially given the power advantage in the hole shot that a 2 stroke design has over a 4 stroke,lower maintenance costs etc.
First of All A Happy New Year 2013 to all!
Does anyone by any chance know where the thermostat is located on a yamaha enduro 8hp? Upon starting it, no water is flowing through - at first I thought it was the impeller or a blockage but upon inspecting all is in order - the impeller is practically new and upon blowing through the water outlet all is clear. Therefore most probably there is something wrong with the thermostat but to be honest I don't actually know what I'm looking for and where it should be located :)
Have a look here, not sure what model you have but this might help.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2000/8MLHY/CYLINDER%20CRANKCASE/parts.html
Thanks guido99. I came across that but apparently the yamaha enduro 8hp is different from the normal yamaha 8hp. I'll however try to check again on saturday as I'm assuming it should be in some similar place. Also, can I use gasket paste instead of the gasket if I don't manage to find a gasket? Is there any particular type of paste I should ask for?
Benri be carefull as i have heard that all yamaha suffer from internal blockages caused by salt
benri i onwed an enduro for years and used it frequently for livebait trolling on my now sold boat. those engine suffer a lot from internal salt deposits that can only be cleaned by opening the engine. this happens as they have a zinc film inside that is lost by time and salt becomes highly corrosive. i had the full scemantics of the outboard they are the same as the e8dmh.
i suggest that those outboards have their thermostats removed and the small holes in the cylindee radiator head are widened. i used to service my outboard myself.
these outboards are still widely used in zurrieq and they do not experience any problems of thelis type as:-
they use themneveryday so salt deposits do not accumulate.
they are rinsed after use with white vinegar.
if you want to keep something free from salt, i highly suggest rinsing it with vinegar. vinegqr is an exact opposite of salt in terms of acid and dissolves salt sediment. further more, it is cheap compared to the saalt away shit and is not corrosive on rubber or metal.
yiur outboard would smell like salad yes, but with 10 euro you keep the engine block free from salf deposjts for a season.
mechanically, enduros hardly wear out, more reliable than yamahas. however watch on the carburateur it can clog. but with the use of a good 2 stroke oil yiu are covered.
hope it helps
if yiu need anythjng let me know i hhave an impellor of that engine running around yoh can take it as i dont need it
thanks for all the info guys. Another question - can I use gasket paste instead of the gasket if I don't manage to find a gasket? Is there any particular type of paste I should ask for?
for the cylinder head gasket no as this is a seal.to the pistons. where there is the thermostat. if water gets in here the pistons will.be done.
for the cooler part i have always used it but i conjunction with the gasket you can always make yhe gasket from the old gasket using it as a stencil on some rubber gasket sheet.
gasan for sure had the gaskets for sale. but they are expensivr compared to onlone prices. except for the cylinder head one, you ca make the others. when you use gasket seal make sure that yiu only do a light film of it as anything that goes into the internal passage will create a blockage.
however, i would worry more on what blockage you will find. salt deposits un these outboards can be awful to remove
looks like it will not be as easy as I thought! Well, I'll give it a try and if I don't succeed put everything in place (with a couple of extra bolts remaining :) ) and take it to a mechanic! Thanks Granitu
if you do not.manage come to my garage in 2 hrs i gst it done for you. in any case, ig you really need professional help next to my garage there is an outboard mechanic and he taught to me how to do it
now that's what i call help!
Cheers Granitu - Greatly appreciated! I'll keep you posted! On the schematics however, there appears to be a thermostat cover (No. 36 - Page 4) but no thermostat! Strange :O
those outboards are best operated without a thermostat.
this isn someghing many miss on these outboards. when you will.open, you will notice how small the passages are. the outboard easily heats up and does not need a thermostat.in the med sea.
this outboard mechanically is one of the best yamaha ever build, they very rarely fail. however, they have this salt sediment issue thaT can be overcome. given their endurance and durability many still use these outboards.
they can also be fuelled with paraffin
So how is best to threat an outboard after a day fishing?
I use Salt Off to flush it - this can be replaced with white vinegar right?
Then I use CRC666 and spray on the engine. Someone suggested Silicone spray instead of CRC666 and someone else recommended Wurth Multi.
So whats the best to use?
And for the outside I use soap and water. Now someone recommended wax polish. Is this any good for salt not to stick after a day in the sun?
In all honesty I flushed the outboard with Salt Away the last time it worked. Following that the above happened! I am not blaming the salt away but..... well, I just don't know!
Quote from: Moonwalker on January 04, 2013, 10:53:53 CET
So how is best to threat an outboard after a day fishing?
I use Salt Off to flush it - this can be replaced with white vinegar right?
Then I use CRC666 and spray on the engine. Someone suggested Silicone spray instead of CRC666 and someone else recommended Wurth Multi.
So whats the best to use?
And for the outside I use soap and water. Now someone recommended wax polish. Is this any good for salt not to stick after a day in the sun?
for outside use vinegar
lets start little by little. vinegar is by far a cheaper and much better alternative to salt away. mother nature cteated an opposite to salt, a nearly exact opposite. salt away is made out oc somw citric acid anx colorant, so why not using the source.
silicone spray us bettee than crc666 but if you like there is even a more better alternative, wax spray- spray tax xema. basically it is bees wax
interesting conversation...
well done granitu..
In my days we used to wipe the outboard with a cloth soaked in cooking oil. It never had barnacles and always looked new. When on the hard we washed with fairy liquid and after completely dry again an oil wipe before launching.
Bees wax is good but Caruana marine has a very good wax. I use it on my rudder, props and transducer face. Lasts all season on the transducer keeps the face clean.
@granitu - Thanks m8. So about the wax-spray, should this be sprayed on the whole engine or just exposed metal? And should it be done every time or once a while, since it should stay there I suppose?
@shanook - I have tried the cooking oil thing but I still had dried salt sticked to the housing after a day fishing. Ofcourse if goes off with some soap and water but maybe there is some treatment that water droplets just dont stick at all.
Quote from: Moonwalker on January 06, 2013, 19:32:48 CET
@granitu - Thanks m8. So about the wax-spray, should this be sprayed on the whole engine or just exposed metal? And should it be done every time or once a while, since it should stay there I suppose?
@shanook - I have tried the cooking oil thing but I still had dried salt sticked to the housing after a day fishing. Ofcourse if goes off with some soap and water but maybe there is some treatment that water droplets just dont stick at all.
Wax spray is very tacky and you can spray the whole engine with it. For the exterior i would suggest not to as it is tacky but if this is not an issue you can proceed to do so. Just rub it after application exteriollay. for the interior spray as much as you want.
I guarantee you that not a single spot of rust will appear as i do this myself. When you muight need service or repair, it will be a little messy but you will not find rust. For rust to form, it needs air and by wax you have eliminated this. Ultimately it is a non corrosive element.
@ shanook - interesting re caruana marine wax - I will ask him out and see what is all about.
One last question about wax - does it do any damage to plastic or rubber parts as oil does?
Quote from: Moonwalker on January 06, 2013, 23:57:47 CET
One last question about wax - does it do any damage to plastic or rubber parts as oil does?
no. thats the beauty of wax over oil
Wax spray, like Waxoil/Dinitrol of the car?
Quote from: skip on January 07, 2013, 15:36:08 CET
Wax spray, like Waxoil/Dinitrol of the car?
Yes, car dinitrol is a type of wax oil. It can be used i guess as it is widely used on cars and known to be effective. Cost may be higher however I would check that it is not petroleum based (environmental issues).
Also, Dinitrol if it needs to be removed, can be quite difficult to remove.
Good thought skip never thought of trying it out but worth more than a try. For sure it is of no harm on metals and plastics
Just an update - I received the gaskets, cleaned all water passages with vinegar as suggested by Granitu, reassembled and all is working like clockwork :) The flow of water was never so strong! Thanks for all your help Granitu. The main blockage appeared to be at the outlet of the pipe intake - where the shaft meets the engine compartment - It was all clogged with salt.
And a job well done....prosit benri
glad u managed benri - white vinegar does wonders against salt. It is not as difficult as it seems.