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Author Topic: Yamaha - Temperature Warning Sign problem  (Read 9181 times)
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SteveGB
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« on: July 09, 2011, 21:19:40 CET »

Not sure if anyone can help on this matter  Undecided,

After about 8 hours with my 100 hp Yamaha 4 stroke engine motor running (5 hours of which I was trolling), as I decrease speed from cruising to enter port I heard a continuous beeping sound and noticed that the temp warning sign was blinking. The beeping sound and sign continued for maybe 30 seconds and then stopped. I checked immediately if water was coming out from the motor water outlet and it looked ok. Also checked if there was any plastic etc covering the water intakes but at that time noticed none. I stopped the motor and continued entering Xemxija at a slow speed. The warning sound did not go off again.
I service the motor every summer by a Yamaha mechanic, and this has never happened to me before. The boat has been at me for 6 years now, and I changed the impeller approx 2 years ago.

Any suggestions what could be the problem? Obviously I will be talking to my Mechanic about this but wanted to see if this has ever happened to someone else, and if I should be very worried Cry and not use the boat offshore for now???

Anything else i should be checking myself to see whats the problem?

Thanks a lot nies,
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DEADLIEST CATCH{ --> 18.5 ft Ranieri Soverato powered by 100 hp 4 stroke Yamaha & Yamaha Enduro 8hp
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« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2011, 23:15:54 CET »

Could be your impellor needs replacing Steve. Was it only happening at cruising speed? Given that would be when the engine needs to circulate the most amount of water....when was the last time you changed your impellor and remember that sometimes they can shred even if they were changed recently. It's happened to me before on my Dad's Mercruiser V8s
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guido99
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« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2011, 23:44:14 CET »

I would guess you or your mechanic may not have checked your thermostat recently, and you may have a restricted flow of coolant because the thermostat is fouled with salt deposits or faulty.

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guido99
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« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2011, 21:05:31 CET »

Have you solved the problem with your motor yet ?
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baghira
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« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2011, 08:06:51 CET »

Same happened to me but the alarm was engine failure.
Tested it and resulted a Solenoid valve, Part from RLR costs double the price of Zarb Stores. (Amazing!!!!!!!Same part exaclty).

Wow these electronics...... and I just serviced it few months back.
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« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2011, 10:34:29 CET »

As yours is a Suzuki engine underneath, makes sense to a certain extent. 3rd Party factory makes part for Suzuki, comes into their stock system at Price X. Suzuki dealers get it for X + y% markup as it's used on various zuke engines. BRP places small order for these parts as Johnson are no longer made but they have to keep parts support. BRP get it for a much more expensive price, put their own markup on it, sell it to BRP dealers who put another Mark up on it and then it comes to the end user.

What's interesting is that when I was looking for my new engine I was looking as Suzuki or Evinrude. Zuke were several thousand euros more expensive than Evinrude BRP. And availability of the Zuke would be quite long in comparison. BRP upped warranty in 2011 to 5 years and still no maintenance needed for 1st 3 years guaranteed by the factory. To me that was a no brainer, especially given the power advantage in the hole shot that a 2 stroke design has over a 4 stroke,lower maintenance costs etc.
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benri
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« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2013, 11:19:50 CET »

First of All A Happy New Year 2013 to all!
Does anyone by any chance know where the thermostat is located on a yamaha enduro 8hp? Upon starting it, no water is flowing through - at first I thought it was the impeller or a blockage but upon inspecting all is in order - the impeller is practically new and upon blowing through the water outlet all is clear. Therefore most probably there is something wrong with the thermostat but to be honest I don't actually know what I'm looking for and where it should be located Smiley
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guido99
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« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2013, 19:15:28 CET »

Have a look here, not sure what model you have but this might help.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2000/8MLHY/CYLINDER%20CRANKCASE/parts.html
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benri
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« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2013, 19:42:25 CET »

Thanks guido99. I came across that but apparently the yamaha enduro 8hp is different from the normal yamaha 8hp. I'll however try to check again on saturday as I'm assuming it should be in some similar place. Also, can I use gasket paste instead of the gasket if I don't manage to find a gasket? Is there any particular type of paste I should ask for?
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bigboy
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« Reply #9 on: January 02, 2013, 21:34:53 CET »

Benri be carefull as i have heard that all yamaha suffer from internal blockages caused by salt
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Granitu
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« Reply #10 on: January 03, 2013, 07:18:28 CET »

benri i onwed an enduro for years and used it frequently for livebait trolling on my now sold boat. those engine suffer a lot from internal salt deposits that can only be cleaned by opening the engine. this happens as they have a zinc film inside that is lost by time and salt becomes highly corrosive. i had the full scemantics of the outboard they are the same as the e8dmh.

i suggest that those outboards have their thermostats removed and the small holes in the cylindee radiator head are widened. i used to service my outboard myself.

these outboards are still widely used in zurrieq and they do not experience any problems of thelis type as:-
they use themneveryday so salt deposits do not accumulate.
they are rinsed after use with white vinegar.

if you want to keep something free from salt, i highly suggest rinsing it with vinegar. vinegqr is an exact opposite of salt in terms of acid and dissolves salt sediment. further more, it is cheap compared to the saalt away shit and is not corrosive on rubber or metal.

yiur outboard would smell like salad yes, but with 10 euro you keep the engine block free from salf deposjts for a season.

mechanically, enduros hardly wear out, more reliable than yamahas. however watch on the carburateur it can clog. but with the use of a good 2 stroke oil yiu are covered. 

hope it helps

if yiu need anythjng let me know i hhave an impellor of that engine running around yoh can take it as i dont need it
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Good season so far.....
benri
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« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2013, 08:27:17 CET »

thanks for all the info guys. Another question - can I use gasket paste instead of the gasket if I don't manage to find a gasket? Is there any particular type of paste I should ask for?
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Granitu
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« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2013, 08:39:20 CET »

for the cylinder head gasket no as this is a seal.to the pistons. where there is the thermostat. if water gets in here the pistons will.be done.

for the cooler part i have always used it but i  conjunction with the gasket  you can always make yhe gasket from the old gasket using it as a stencil on some rubber gasket sheet.

gasan for sure had the gaskets for sale. but they are expensivr compared to onlone prices. except for the cylinder head one, you ca  make the others. when you use gasket seal make sure that yiu only do a light film of it  as anything that goes into the internal passage will create a blockage.

however, i would worry more on what blockage you will find. salt deposits un these outboards can be awful to remove
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Good season so far.....
benri
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« Reply #13 on: January 03, 2013, 09:07:49 CET »

looks like it will not be as easy as I thought! Well, I'll give it a try and if I don't succeed put everything in place (with a couple of extra bolts remaining Smiley ) and take it to a mechanic! Thanks Granitu
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Granitu
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« Reply #14 on: January 03, 2013, 18:51:48 CET »

if you do not.manage come to my garage in 2 hrs i gst it done for you. in any case, ig you really need professional help next to my garage there is an outboard mechanic and he taught to me how to do it
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Good season so far.....
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