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Author Topic: Help - Fishing For Alungi  (Read 13591 times)
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Gazzetta
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« on: April 20, 2008, 12:44:33 CET »

Hi Guys,

My name is Chris, I'm 19 from Tarxien and I'm new to this forum. I just got to know about it few days ago and immediatley registered.  I can't say I'm  newbie regarding fishing. I go on shore off shore, trolling, spinning, spearfishing etc etc I tried a lot of different techniques but never used nets and those sort of this !! I don't call that fishing !!

I wanted to ask some questions regarding albacore (alunga) and spearfish (pastardell). Regarding the albacore I wasn't lucky the few times we went out fishing for them, we only caught one till now and I wanted to improve this year.  Friends of mine always catch more than one and I don't have a very different tackle from them. Maybe there are some experts regarding these fish here and can give me some tips, maybe regarding fishing depth, lures, lines, lenght of line from boat etc.

Regarding spearfish, last summer in the dorado season we managed to 4 or 5 bites of very small spearfish (50 - 60 cm) which of course we released.  I was curious how does this fish catch it's lunch.  They way we had the bites and also so this fish attacking our lure was like it wanted to kill it first then eat it. It never hooked to lure like the dorado does !!! Do bigger spearfish do the same thing or they just swollow the bait and that's all ??
Any Experiences ?

Thanks

Chris  Cool
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« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2008, 13:47:21 CET »

Hi Chris,

Welcome to the forum. Concerning Alungi I too was experiencing bad results this year and asked fellow forum members for advice. Last year was notable because a) the water was extremely clear and b) there were lots of small baitfish everywhere. Let's see how that might have effected both yours and my results:

A)

Problem: Water Extremely Clear

The issue here is that fish from the Tuna family have extremely big eyes giving them excellent eyesight in the water. If you were using 40-50lbs monofilament line (nylon) or heavier chances are the fish were seeing your line. Tuna can be extremely cautious to attack unless they are in a feeding frenzy and then instinct kicks in.

Resolution: I'm sure everyone has their own tips and indeed there are a couple of ways to tackle it, but here are mine which are based on other forum members experience and later my own direct experience.

i) Add a 25 yards flurocarbon leader to your main line and make sure the fluro is heavier in lbs rating than the mono. eg. 50lbs mono on spool = 80lbs leader or 60lbs if you are careful with the drag settings.

ii) You could use a thinner diameter leader at the end of the mono say dropping down to 30lbs but I don't like doing this as it defeats the object of having heavier line for possible bigger fish on your reel, but it is a cheaper option so long as you know big fish aren't around. If they are you are likely to either snap your line if your drag settings are high or risk having all your line taken off your spool.

iii) Use smaller diameter but higher strength mono, say 30lbs Berkley Hi-Test which will break at around 50lbs.

The idea behind all of the above is to reduce visibility in the water so that the fish will still strike the lure. We were making the mistake of using 80lbs mono and 130lbs rigging on our lures and the catch rate was very poor.

As soon as we changed to flurocarbon leaders the catch rate shot up indicating this was probably our problem. This year I want to go one step further and change the rigging on our lures to 100-130lbs flurocarbon so that we have invisibile line all the way in the last 30 yards.

I personally prefer being prepared for bigger fish, which whilst not the norm in Malta are around and we have lost some nice lures as a result.

Lures:

Alungi tend to like Yellow/Green colours, jet heads, cedar plugs, rapala type lures etc but vary the colours and do some forum searches about it and you will find some info.

Depths:

You dont tend to see Alungi on the surface, unlike Tuna so presenting baits to them lower down in the water column definately helps. I troll at 5-6 knots so find that most in-line weights dont get the lures down deep enough so this year will be using planers and Z-Wings. Again read up in the forum it's discussed in details.

But have some surface lures and some weighted down/on planers.

Distance from the Boat: Everyone has their own 'rules' or spread patterns that they like to use. There are articles discussing this on the forum and it depends on how many rods you deploy. But in general you try to have some close by, just in the prop wash, some flatlined a bit further back and some people like to run a lure way back as a kind of teaser.

B)

The Baitfish: Last year there were lots and lots of small lacci, meaning that fish weren't so interested in artificial lures! They had an abundance of small 'easy' to catch baitfish and that's what they were going for. Not much you can do about that except try and vary your speeds, lures sizes and spread patterns in a hope you create enough attention! This also affected commercial fisherman going for Lampuki who had to change their methods.

Spearfish/Billfish.

Remember the bill they have? Well that is used to injure their prey first and then they come back for the strike. When you are targeting these fish you need to have your drags set very lightly and don't react straight away. Let the fish hit your lure with its bill, you will hear the line spool off a bit, then wait for the second strike, let it run for a bit, then move your drag up to strike and set the hook. You will tend to want to use lighter drag settings than say tuna and take things slower as they have softer mouths. Some say circle hooks help as they set better.

Hope this gives you some insight, I'm sure others will have suggestions as well.
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« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2008, 14:25:37 CET »

Hi skip,

Thanks a lot for the fast and very detailed reply, really appreciated.

At the moment I'm equipped with 40 lb mono (60mm) on the spool with no down riggers.
So a good option is to add some flurocarbon leader or decrease the thickness of the line which is at see in order to decrease the visibility. What do you suggest as lb and mm ? Should I go for the berkley one ?  Do you have anything special to join the two lines then ? I've been told that the berkley swivels are massive !!

What depth should the lure fish ? How much weight should be used ?
I'm tempted to use the deeper diver from the Angler's Centre. I don't know if someone ever used it or not :

http://www.walkerdownriggers.com/deeper_diver.html

What do you think about it ? While taking the lure down. it can also take left or right according to your desires in order to put more lures in the water.
Usually we only put two ( one left and one right) but this year I'm tempted to put one in the middle as well.

Regarding lures, I also change from rapala fish to squids !!! What do you think ? What size should the lure be ? I have lures ranging from 4 " to 7 " !!  What's the best size ?


Regarding the spearfish, once we left it coming near the boat chasing the lure and it kept striking it without getting hooked. Also while the lure was free and was sinking it still kept sort of striking with out getting hooked but maybe it was only because it was a small one !!
I'm used to keep the drags light in that period of the year as you told me, I was already told the same thing hehe. Other told me to keep attracting it to the boat then try either to hit it with a speargun or hook it up :s  I don't think it will be successful !! boq

Thanks again mate

Chris


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« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2008, 15:08:15 CET »

Hi Chris,

Surprised to see you have 40lbs mono and still experiencing issues with strike rates as really that should be in the okay region. You could put a 25 yards 60lbs flurocarbon leader on to that line, a very good knots seems to be the Alberto Knot http://www.stripersonline.com/Pages/Articles/article_arby_albertos_knot.shtml

The key is to make sure the lines are very well lubricated before clinching down.

Unless you are due to replace your mono (ideally change it every season if you caught alot on it and can afford to do so, or every two seasons), I don't think you should change your 40lbs mono you have already. What reel is it on?

I like to use snap swivels for my lures as it makes it alot easier to change lure type. The best way to do this is to buy a crimping set and then create a loop at the end of your lure leader and use a correct sized crimp along with a loop protector that usually comes with the kit. Then attach your snap swivel which you've either tied or crimped to the loop. Make sure that you buy some small squids to cover the crimped loop and snap swivel. And like this the fish won't see the snap swivel and it will look like your lure is chasing a smaller fish. If you use a barrel swivel also try and cover it.

Not familar with the walker units, this year I intend to use a Z-Wing 250 http://www.anglerscenter.com/zwing.htm and run it using the following method:

http://maltafishingforum.com/talk/index.php?topic=475.0

I also have a planer which doesnt go as deep but you can use the same technique.

http://www.anglerscenter.com/acc_planers.htm

You don't need a rod and can tie it off a cleat.

Concerning inline weights, not very experienced there, I've try 350grams but dont feel that take it deep enough to justify.

Concerning lure size, it's very much a question of trying depending on the bite during the day and changing out. Don't be scared to use a 7 inch or 9 inch lure if there are alungi in the area, but a good 4-5 inch lure is also okay. I tend to be a bit careful using rapala's with 4 rods as they like to swerve left and right alot which can cause tackles, but they are great to run close by in the prop wash. The Yozuri Hydro squirt http://www.anglerscenter.com/lures_yozuri.htm gives a similar effect but is less erratic and has produced great results. DJS swears by them and has caught some nice fish.

Wish fishing I'm afraid, there's no such thing as best size, best lure type, best colour! Hence you need to have several different types and play around. Some will even advise having two of each so if the bite is hot on a green/yellow hydrosquirt at 5m for example you would put the same on the other rod. But it's get expensive to double up!!

Email Dean at Anglers Center, I'm in talks with him to offer Malta Fishing Forum members some discounts or specials on certain items, and he ships with USPS (United States Post) which keeps shipping costs down, he also has a massive site!

Concerning what happened with your spearfish, trying jigging the lure next time to simulate the fish being injured.
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« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2008, 20:05:43 CET »

Ok then, I'll try using the flurocarbon leader and see what happens.  Regarding the Z Wing, I'm very interested in it. I think it works just the same as the Deep Diver, the problem is that I didn't understand exactly how it's hooked to the line with the rubber band !!! What will happen it the rubber band dosen't break when the fish strikes ??  It's a bit risky in my opinion !!  I saw lots of fisherman running their lures just 1 foot deep and sometimes they also jumped out of the water with success !!! Was that just luck or maybe the albacore sometimes comes up to shallower waters aswell ?? 

Once I spent 2 hours at the Anglers center trying to find something to will snap out the Deeper diver as a fish strikes, same system as the downrigger but we didn't manage !!  Will a very thin line break with a strike ? Say a 10mm ?

Once on a Rapala Dvd, I also saw a sort of planner that floats and moves the lure left or right as you adjust it just to make space for other lures !!  Do ever so this system in malta ?

If you'll use the Z Wing, how far from the lure will you snap it ?  Will fish be afraid to such thing or curious about it hehe ?

The reel I'm using is the Okuma Magda Pro 45 DX with line counter.  I've got 2 of them and never experienced problems till now !!! TOUCH WOOD !!! hehe

You run the titus gold ? 

Chris  Smiley
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« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2008, 09:48:35 CET »

Quote
I didn't understand exactly how it's hooked to the line with the rubber band !!! What will happen it the rubber band dosen't break when the fish strikes ??

You have the Z-Wing deployed on a tether at a fixed length say 70 feet. So the Z-Wing is running at maybe 30 feet underwater. You then use a shower curtain ring to which you attach a rubber band and after letting the desired amount of line off from your rod you wrap the rubber band to the line off your rod, then open the shower curtain ring around the Z-Wing tether, and close it again. The water pressure takes the shower curtain ring down to the Z-Wing along with your line, so that your lure is set. It seems that 10lbs of pressure will in fact break the rubber band so that your line detaches, apparently it does work, but I understand your dilemma!

Quote
I saw lots of fisherman running their lures just 1 foot deep and sometimes they also jumped out of the water with success

You don't have to always run very deep, sometimes sub surface is enough, it depends where the albacore are in the water column. You have to reason that if you provide them with a lure 30 feet down where they are swimming there's a greater chance of them seeing it and attacking. Same with 1 foot down just below the surface it provides a better silhouette.

Quote
Once I spent 2 hours at the Anglers center trying to find something to will snap out the Deeper diver as a fish strikes

Use any downrigger release clip which use the pressure type that grips the line. The thing with this is they are not cheap so if you're using the shower curtain technique you have to have quite a few of them! Otherwise you can just have one, attach it to the Z-Wing but then everytime you want to re-deploy the line you have to slow down and retreive the Z-Wing which is a hassle!

Not seen that floating planer!

Quote
If you'll use the Z Wing, how far from the lure will you snap it ?

That's very much up to you depending how close or far you want to set it from the boat. But I reckon 5-8 meters from the Z-Wing should be fine and I don't think it will disturb the fish like that. Can't say I'm an expert as it's something I will try this year. Trial and error is the game!


This year I will be running a Penn International V 50 Wide Single Speed and the Okuma Titus Gold 50Wide 2 speed as my main heavy reels. I have two Penn Commander 30's as my light tackle reels with two 20-30lbs rods.

Then I have some backup reels that I am servicing, a Penn Senator 115L 9/0 and a Lineaeffe 30/50 which is an emergency reel as it's crappy and I don't recommend them to anyone!
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« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2008, 11:37:50 CET »

Hi Chris,

I've been fishing for Alungi since 1998, and each year its a different story. 
Rod setup:

I use Penn combos, senator 114H reels and rods with aftco rollers.  My main line is Momoi diamond 40lbs and I use a 2 yard florocarbon leader max 60Lbs.  Joining the two lines is a stainless steel swivel size 37Kgs.

Setup

My setup configuration is 5 lines in the water:
Middle rod (shotgun) SG
Port & Stbd corners (short/long corners) SC, LC
Port and Stbd riggers (short/long riggers) SR, LR  lines are mounted onto outriggers.  The main use of outriggers is to reduce tangles, and get the line out of the prop wash into clear waters.

Lures:

I use Pakula lures for all lines except the shotgun, where I like to experiment.  Usually I run a Williamson lure here, in green/yellow, or purple black (depending on whether its a clear or dull day, sea conditions, ect.).  Try and experiment yourself, but the best colours are green/yellow  - purple/black for soft lures, and the famous red/white form rapala.  I also use twin hooks.

As Skip quite rightly said above, alungi have been blessed/cursed by some fine eyesight.  Blessed because Alungi tend to swim in the 50-150 fthm range, and cursed since they have no problem spotting the line trolling the lure. 
1st rule of thumb; Alungi are attracted to the vibrations of your boat, and the prop wash.  This commotion to them signifies that something at the top is happening, and like all pelagics will come up to investigate.  They're thinking is "there must either be a lot of bait up there, and someone's into a good feed", or during an eating frenzy "its dinner timeGrin .  Try and swim your lures beginning at the end of the propwash, positioning them on  pressure waves (These waves are caused by the boat as it moves forward, and visible from the back; size and amount of pressure waves is dependent on the hull, speed, and transom width).  A very basic distance is the following:
SC/LC about 85' long
SR,LR about 115' long
SG about 130 long. 
This is a very subjective scenario, and all depends on hull, pressure waves, time of fishing, and personal tastes!!!!

2nd rule of thumb; Its called the window of opportunity.  When Alungi come up to the top to feed, either because there are bait around, or have been roused up by the boat, this is what we call "its show time" Wink.....this oppportunity can either last 30 minutes, or all day, depending on the conditions.  So, when this opportunity strikes you, there are a number of things which you need to do o maximise on this window of opportunity.

1.  Stay within the area
2.  As soon as you get a strike, don't reel in, count to the magic number of 10, and try and get other strikes in before cutting the trottle to minimum.  There's nothing more exciting then hearing reels screaming out line simultaneously.
3.  Don't forget to mark the area on your GPS, if they came up once here, they'll do it again 

Trolling

I personally troll at 6 -6.5 knts.  Try and get the sun always at the back of the boat (to reduce glare and minimise the glare from the line).  Best way is to zig-zag instead of running straigth.  Look for shelves, better known as drop offs.  Always troll on the opposite side of the current to the drop off.  Let me explain this.  Lets say, on your GPS you see a drop off, and current is in a W-E direction, always troll on the east side of the line.  Why?, because the current is creating an uplift, which causes a temperature break, and we all know that bait just love temperature breaks. 
Look out for the obvious signs, bait skipping the water, gulls skimming the surface (and if you're lucky, diving into the sea), and current lines, jumpers, a combination of 2 or more of these signs is surely a strike.

Well, I guess I've put in my 2 pense worth....if you need more info, just ask.  Always willing to help.

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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2008, 13:45:48 CET »

Hi Guys,

First of all thanks a lot for your help and explanations.  Really appreciate the way you're explaning each and every bit !! 

The boat I use for trolling is an 18 ft open deck boat with a 90hp Nissan and a 15 hp Mariner.  Palpitation 535 is the model, bought from Jupiter Marine Centre in Mosta.  I always use 2 rods, 1 on each side with Okuma Magda DX 45 with 40 lb Yo Zuri line !!  The first change for this year is gonna be the flurocarbon leader for sure. Regarding the swivel joining the two lines, is it small enough to go through the rod guides ? Any specific brand, maybe berkley ?

Lures :

As you said I like to experiment a lot with lures also according to the weather change, I learned that watching a Rapala Dvd.
I have different lures from a 4 " rapala to to 9 " williamson squid etc etc.
It's more easy for you to experiment as you run 5 lines all together while I run only 2 !!

So how do you manage to keep the two alungi which strike together away from each other not to mess the two lines ??  I think it's not the first time you caught 2  simultaneously !!

Regarding speed I usually stopped @ 5 maybe 5.5 the most, maybe that was one of the problems I had !!

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation regarding currents and drop offs !!  Really interesting !!

Thanks
Chris  Cool
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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2008, 16:14:41 CET »

Hi Chris,

Remember I said I only use about 2 yards of leader?....that way I don't need to wind on the leader.  One theory suggests that the leader should be at least the length of the fish you seek.  Other schools suggest wind-on leader.  Its your personal choice. Yes, I use Berkely swivels, but this is attached to the leader, and I just use a stainless steel eye on the main line.

Strikes:  My best to date is 3 simultaneous strikes.  The secret here to keep the fish from running across each other...(alungi have this peculiar way of doing a circling motion while you're winding in) is to keep the boat moving straight in dead slow.  Go for the 1st rod that was hit, while tightening up the drag on the other rod....don't tighten too much, just leave enough pressure so that if the fish decides to take a run, there is enough drag pressure on the reel to allow it to do so without the line breaking.....and beleive me, alungi like to take a run now and again....these are great fighters, and its the main reason I troll for them.  One important thing....always secure your rods to the boats gunwhale, or a cleat.  It isn't the 1st time I've been in open water and listen to someone cursing on the VHF because a strike poped out the rod from the rod holder. 

I always fish my lures at the surface, since I firmly beleive that initially alungi are attracted to the boats vibrations and prop wash, then when they come up to investigate they are attracted to the lures.  I also like to have the same colour in my pattern, and the same size.  let me explain further:
If you have ever watched the discovery channel, Nat Geo or Animal Planet, you have surely witnessed a predator (lion, cheetah, leopard, hyenas) hunting.  These are predators.  They share the same instict as the predators of the sea.  They know that they have to give chase to capture and kill their prey.  So what do they do, they choose the lamest of the hurd, either a young fawn, an old hog or a lame prey. They don't have to exert too much energy to eat!!! Same with fish, you present a choice to the fish, they will choose  Wink hence the idea of using the same lure, size and colour.  Remember, not all lures swim the same.  So in the sea predator's logic, they will choose the lamest of the lures, and strike there.  So, to increase your stike chance, remember the window of opportunity  Grin, never offer the fish a choice, just what u c is what u get!!!!...
Do start early, as dawn breaks, the fish are hungry...its a good time to start....try and position yourself on the first ridge that runs from filfla at the breaking of dawn....then take a SE board following the ridge, look for current lines, and troll along side them. 
Two lines are good to start with.  When I started out, I had 2 lines in the water, one on a fishing rod, the other tied to a small 4ltr empty plastic tank and secured to the boat using a rubber band.  When the rubberband exploded (man, I'm not kidding, when alungi strike, its like the orient express hitting that rubberband) I kept on going, same speed, and start turning....usually the reel exploded into a scream seconds after that. The buzz was just looking at the plastic tank skimming the surface at an incredible speed.  I have actually had the good fortune (once in 10yrs) of seeing an alunga strike my SC (thats the lure swimming closest to the boat)...the sea just erupted infront of my eyes, incredible speed (maybe25/30mph) of attack...and then, the music to my ears, the reel screaming out line!!!!
As you can see, I am very passionate about this, and am just waiting for the season to start!!!!
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2008, 19:42:31 CET »

Hi The_Gaffer,

So regarding to the leader you're saying that once that the swivel that joins the main line to the leader arrives near the first rod guide you'll have to stop and start putting in the line with your hands untill you hook the fish in the boat ?  wouldn't it much better if you just keep using the reel till you have the fish underneath the boat ready to be hooked up ?

From what am I reading I think you don't use line guides on your reels neither ?  Do you think it would break with a good strike or not ?  I never used one without it and sort of think it's difficult to control the line in the reel while fighting with the fish ? Any ideas or suggestions ?

So you run all you lures in the same depth, same lenght and also same color etc ?  I was always told to vary colors in order to have see what color is best that day and then change the rest after the first strike but I really liked your theory !!
So what depth do you run you lures ? Do you use any weight (not including downriggers) ?

Regarding hot spots, you mentioned filfla right.  So one has to go out near that island and run parallel to Zurrieq ghand Ghar Lapsi etc.  They told me that even if you go out of marsascala is good, have ever been on that side ?  How far do you get from land ? Does the Alunga keep striking all day if it's a good day or there's time when it stops ?

Thanks

Chris Cool
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« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2008, 21:05:20 CET »

Chris,

With a two foot leader when the swivel comes up to the top rod guide it's almost in the boat!! If you're running a leader the length of the fish or even the rod then 6ft is plenty so you have nothing to worry about.

What did you mean don't use line guides? Do you mean a level winder, which evenly winds the line on the reel as you crank? You don't find those on bigger reels because they break under pressure! Just use your thumb carefully.
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« Reply #11 on: April 21, 2008, 21:08:31 CET »

Hi The_Gaffer,

Interesting read about your set up. What boat are you fishing off, would be great for everyone if you could post some pics and tell us a little about the boat.

It shows you are passionate about Alungi, have you not gone fishing for 10-20 kgs Bluefin that we find running around our shores? If you think Alungi are fun, try bluefin hehe!

I almost went in last year when I was deploying a Rapala which had just gone in the water and as they create quite a drag the reel wasn't on freespool. Had a 10kgs bluefin strike almost as it deployed which caught me completely off guard!

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« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2008, 10:21:45 CET »

Seems like the gaffer is using the Bob Franko method. Which is very good and I often use myself. Athough I do so with a bit of my own variations in the bob franco method.

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« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2008, 10:44:47 CET »

Hi Chris, Skip,

The leader is only 2 yards long (6 feet)...by the time the swivel reaches the surface, I'm preparing to position the fish and gaff it.  I do not use any weights on the line, I like to troll surface lines.  I will post a series of pics explaining this.  The 1st pic shows the swivel (yellow arrow) just above the surface and the fish clearly visible about 6 feet under.  
the 2nd pic depicts my personal choice of lure positioning.  The positions are indicated by the yellow arrows, pay particular attention to the pressure waves I mentioned in an earlier post.  The green arrow shows a sea gull (thats optional!!!....hehehe, just kidding)...The way Pakula lures come up to the surface every 10seconds or so to breath, seem to attract gulls as well.  

Skip, you have my undevoted attention to the topic of blue fins!!!!....Where in Gods name are these creatures, I mean in the 10/20 kg range.  Which time of the season do they appear?
This is my experience with a Blue fin:
Trolling in the last last week of July 06' some 15Kmiles SE of Malta, my shotgun rod (the middle one) got hit.  From experience, I could at once realise that the way the line was peeling out of the reel, this was no ordinary alunga!.  Placing the rod inside the harness, and taking the drag in my fingers, I proceeded to slowly tighten the drag.  The line just kept peeling off.  I have 475yds of momoi diamond 40lbs on this reel, and the diameter was shrinking  fast.  I asked my wife to disengage the engine, and cautiously tightened the drag.  The rod (a penn 40/80lbs) was hell bent and line was still peeling out.  I was nearing the end of the spool, my drags started slipping, and the boat had stopped dead in its tracks.  Called out to the wife to put the boat into reverse and I started pumping the rod.  I'm thinking "I need to turn this fish around towards me, or I'm going to lose all the line".  Miracles do happen my friends, and I managed to turn its head towards me.  Immediately I proceeded to engage the boat engine in dead slow, and start reeling in the line.  Easier said then done.  I would probably reel in about 20yrds, and lose another 30yrds.  Finally after about 45minutes, the fish stopped fighting, and started the usual circling motion.  I disengaged the engine once again, and started pumping the rod and retriving line.  I had cramps in my back, my hands were numb, and my arm muscles ached, but pump and retrieve I did.  Half way up (I could tell from the amount of line now on the reel) the blasted fish decided to do another run....this time I held on for mercy....and soon the fish gave way again...so, pump and retrieve.  Again I felt the fish making a run for it, only this time it was in a staccato motion, thud, thud, thud....and all of a sudden, the rod felt horrendously light.  I had lost the fish....Whetever was said in those few minutes is between me and the sea.  Not fit to publish.    I reacon it was a blue fin, maybe in the 150kgs range.  The fish managed to unhook itself.  That my friends, is the only time I had a hook- up of blue fin.  So...........Skip, for the love of God, please enlighten me further on that statement...me and blue fin have a score to settle.

* swivel.doc (122.5 KB - downloaded 178 times.)
* lure position.doc (253 KB - downloaded 164 times.)
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Beneteau Antares 9.80 - Powered by twin Volvo Penta D4 225HP
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The_Gaffer
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Petecraft 16 Powered by Yamaha 70HP


« Reply #14 on: April 22, 2008, 12:16:53 CET »


Skip,

You asked me about my boat...here she is..the Trojan F-26.  Built in 1978, from GRP.  Shipped her all the way from the USA 5 years ago.  The_Gaffer has been repowered by a Steyr Hi-Power 246HP marine turbo diesel engine.  Trojan boats were built by Whitetaker & Sons and designed by Trojan and Bertram.  Then the company was sold to Carver Boats in 1992.  Trojans are still built today by Carver, but only in the 44 - 50 feet range.  The F-26 is 26 feet long and 10'6" wide.  She sleeps 4 comfortably in a wide vee berth up front and two by the port side in the cabin.  The cabin height is 6'4" high, so its very comfortable.  There is also a stand up shower and head to the starboard side.  A 2 burner gas cooker and fridge/freezer compliment the interior furniture to make it the perfect weekender.  She handles very well in all types of seas, except for following high seas.  Since she's a beamy beast, she tends to mash.  To counter for this, I put up the trim tabs all the way and increase the speed, that way she's up on the plane and riding the waves, while having her transom sitting slightly deeper into the sea.  Its important to be going faster then the following waves to prevent the bow from dipping into the sea.  With the new engine in, I can comfortably cruise at 18knts (normal cruising) 20Knts (high cruising) and top speed of 25 knts.  Fuel consumption is good too.  I can cruise at 7.5lts/hr and troll at 4ltrs/hr.  At 11knts, she is completely up on the plane and not dragging any water behind her.  The trojan F-26 is equipped with a bottom keel of about 8" in length.  This serves 2 purposes, 1st this helps the boat move in a straight line since it is a single screw, and 2nd she does not drift due to the drag of the keel.  The downside is that she could do 3-4 knts more without a keel.  I have been caught in Force 7 seas just of the coast near Portopalo, on my way up to Siracuse, and she handled very well.  All the other boats outside, mainly trollers, were pitching and rolling, but the Trojan just just sliced through the head on waves with ease.
Equipment:
Dual Hydraulic helm station, new.  Bennet trim tabs, Raymarine hydraulic autopilot, 500ltr fuel tank and 80ltr fresh water tank.  Electric windlass and 80mtrs chain and anchor.  2 automatic bidge pumps, one manual.  Salt water pressure pump to wash down decks.  Teak cockpit, decks and gunwhale. 
Electronics:
Lowrance Globalmap GPS and Furuno 1000mtr fishfinder, equipped with temp and speed.  Icom and sailor VHF.
Fishing:
Tigress outriggers and cannon downrigger.  Penn international senator rods and 114H reels.  Miya Epoch x-4 electric reel for deep sea fishing. 

I also changed the forward bulkhead and gave her a new paint job on the decks.  She's my fishing machine, and although 30 yrs old, still has the looks of a teen!!!!
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